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all roads lead to Rome
Where ancient empires collide with modern Istanbul, a single historic thoroughfare carries the weight of over 1,600 years of history beneath its cobblestones. Divan Yolu—the "Road to the Imperial Council"—stretches like a timeline through the heart of Istanbul's Old City, offering travelers a journey through Byzantine grandeur, Ottoman splendor, and contemporary Turkish life, all within a single afternoon's stroll.
Your journey along Divan Yolu properly begins at the Milion Stone—a humble yet historically profound monument that served as the Byzantine Empire's equivalent of Ground Zero. This weathered marble remnant, located just steps from Hagia Sophia, once formed part of a tetrapylon (four-sided arch) erected by Emperor Constantine in the 4th century. Golden mile markers radiated outward from this very spot, measuring distances to every major city in the Byzantine Empire.
Standing beside this ancient milestone today, one can touch the literal starting point of all imperial roads. Roman messengers, diplomatic envoys, and trade caravans would gather here before embarking on journeys that might take them thousands of miles across three continents. The stone's worn surface bears witness to countless departures and arrivals that shaped the course of Mediterranean history.
Though modest in appearance now—reduced to a fragment of its former glory—the Milion Stone represents one of the most significant geographical markers in world history. It was the Constantinople equivalent of Rome's Golden Milestone, the point from which the famous saying "all roads lead to Rome" (or in this case, Constantinople) derived its meaning. From this humble stone, Divan Yolu stretches westward, unfurling centuries of history with each step.
Originally engineered as the Mese (Middle Road) by Roman planners, what we now call Divan Yolu began its life as the primary artery connecting Constantinople to Rome. This perfectly straight, marble-paved boulevard once hosted triumphant processions of Roman emperors, their gilded chariots gleaming in the Mediterranean sun as they returned from victorious campaigns. Byzantine rulers later maintained the road as their ceremonial axis, processing from the Great Palace to the city's most important churches and forums.
When the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453, they recognized the strategic and symbolic importance of this ancient thoroughfare. Sultan Mehmed II and his successors transformed it into the path that connected the heart of Ottoman power—Topkapı Palace—to the rest of their expanding empire. The road earned its current name, Divan Yolu, because it was traversed by the sultan and his grand viziers en route to the Divan (Imperial Council) meetings where the fate of an empire spanning three continents was decided.
As you continue your journey along Divan Yolu from the Milion Stone through Sultanahmet Square, the road immediately reveals its historical significance through a remarkable concentration of Ottoman funerary architecture. The Sultanahmet tomb complex houses the final resting places of five sultans and their families, their mausoleums distinguished by soaring domes and walls adorned with exquisite İznik tiles in vibrant blues and whites. The intricate calligraphy adorning these tombs—verses from the Quran promising eternal paradise—offers insights into Ottoman spiritual beliefs and artistic sophistication.
Directly across from these imperial tombs stands the Köprülü Library, a testament to the Ottoman Empire's intellectual ambitions. Established in 1659 by Grand Vizier Köprülü Mehmed Pasha, this institution represented one of the empire's first public libraries, housing precious manuscripts and providing a sanctuary for scholars. Its architecture—with its lead-covered dome, graceful arches, and secluded reading rooms—embodies the Ottoman commitment to knowledge that helped sustain their empire for centuries.
Further along Divan Yolu, the tomb of Köprülü Mehmed Pasha himself awaits discovery. This grand vizier, who rose from humble Albanian origins to become the empire's most effective administrator, stabilized the Ottoman state during a period of crisis in the 17th century. His distinctive tomb, topped with an unusual wrought-iron grille, stands as a reminder of the meritocratic elements that contributed to the longevity of Ottoman rule.
Perhaps no monument along Divan Yolu better symbolizes Istanbul's layered history than the Column of Constantine (Çemberlitaş). Erected in 330 CE to commemorate Constantinople's establishment as the new capital of the Roman Empire, this towering porphyry column once stood at the center of a magnificent forum. Originally crowned with a golden statue of Constantine depicted as Apollo, the column has weathered centuries of fires, earthquakes, and conquests. The iron bands encircling it today—which gave rise to its Turkish name Çemberlitaş ("Hooped Stone")—were added in the Byzantine era to stabilize the monument after earthquake damage.
Across from this ancient column stands Çemberlitaş Hamam, a masterpiece of Ottoman civic architecture designed by the legendary architect Sinan. Commissioned in 1584 by Nurbanu Sultan, mother of Sultan Murad III, this bathhouse has served Istanbul residents and visitors for over four centuries. Beneath its magnificent central dome, bathers still experience the traditional Turkish bath ritual much as their ancestors did—a living connection to Ottoman daily life that transcends the centuries.
What makes Divan Yolu truly remarkable is not just its historical monuments but how it functions as a living cultural artery. In the courtyards of former medreses (Islamic schools), traditional tea gardens and nargile (water pipe) cafés offer visitors an authentic glimpse into Turkish social customs. At İlesam Lokalı, patrons sip tea amid ancient gravestones and under the shade of centuries-old plane trees, while at Erenler Nargile Salonu, the ritualistic preparation of the water pipe continues traditions dating back to the 17th century.
These establishments represent more than tourist attractions—they are living cultural institutions where locals gather to debate politics, play backgammon, and maintain social bonds. The rich aroma of apple-scented tobacco mingles with the steam from brewing tea, creating an atmosphere that connects modern Istanbul to its Ottoman past.
Today's Divan Yolu pulses with the energy of contemporary Istanbul while preserving echoes of its imperial past. The yellow T1 tram glides along tracks laid upon what was once the processional route of emperors. Street vendors hawk simit (sesame-crusted bread rings) and fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice from carts positioned beneath Byzantine columns. Bookshops display the latest Turkish novels alongside historical tomes, while traditional craftsmen practice calligraphy and ceramics in workshops tucked between modern boutiques.
As evening descends, the historic buildings along Divan Yolu are illuminated, their domes and minarets silhouetted against the darkening sky. The muezzin's call to prayer cascades from nearby mosques, temporarily hushing the street's bustle—a moment when the city's spiritual heritage asserts itself amid the rush of modern life.
A journey along Divan Yolu offers more than sightseeing—it provides a sensory immersion into Istanbul's multi-layered identity. Here, visitors can touch stones laid by Roman engineers, admire the artistic achievements of Ottoman craftsmen, and participate in cultural traditions that have survived for centuries.
To truly appreciate Divan Yolu, one must embrace its dual nature as both historical monument and living street. Take time to step into a traditional tea garden, where the clinking of tea glasses and murmur of conversation creates a soundtrack that has accompanied this road for centuries. Sample a piece of baklava from a confectionery whose recipes have been passed down through generations. Observe the street's rhythm as locals hurry to work, pausing briefly to exchange greetings with neighborhood shopkeepers.
In following this ancient road from the Milion Stone westward, modern travelers join a procession stretching back sixteen centuries—a continuous line of humanity that has witnessed the rise and fall of empires but continues to find meaning in this remarkable thoroughfare that remains, as it has always been, the beating heart of Istanbul.
Sun, Mar 16, 2025 12:29 PM
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