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Istanbul's Crown Jewel
Perched majestically on one of Istanbul's seven hills, the Süleymaniye Mosque commands the city's skyline with an authority that befits its creator. Sultan Süleyman I—known in the West as Süleyman the Magnificent and to his own people as "Kanuni" (the Lawgiver)—commissioned this architectural masterpiece at the height of Ottoman power in the 16th century. As the largest mosque complex in Istanbul, the Süleymaniye stands not merely as a house of worship but as a bold statement of imperial might, artistic refinement, and the culmination of classical Ottoman architecture.
The collaboration between Süleyman and his chief architect, Mimar Sinan, produced what many consider the zenith of Ottoman architectural achievement. Constructed between 1550 and 1557, the mosque represents the mature period in Sinan's illustrious career. If the earlier Şehzade Mosque was his apprenticeship work and the later Selimiye in Edirne his masterpiece, then the Süleymaniye was, in Sinan's own words, the work of his "journeyman" phase—though this modesty belies the building's breathtaking grandeur and technical sophistication.
Sinan's genius is evident in his resolution of the architectural challenge that had preoccupied builders since Hagia Sophia: how to integrate a massive dome with the spatial requirements of Islamic worship. The Süleymaniye's dome, measuring 26.5 meters in diameter and soaring 53 meters above the floor, creates an interior space of awe-inspiring volume while maintaining perfect acoustic properties.
Approaching the Süleymaniye, visitors are struck by the harmonious proportions of its exterior. The mosque complex occupies nearly 6 hectares of prime hilltop real estate, dominated by four slender minarets marking the corners of the spacious courtyard. The positioning of these minarets—with their ten balconies in total—subtly commemorates Süleyman as the tenth Ottoman sultan and the fourth since the conquest of Constantinople.
The courtyard itself is a masterclass in spatial balance, with its colonnaded portico (revak) of 28 domes supported by marble and granite columns. The ablution fountain at its center provides both practical function and aesthetic focus. The main entrance portal, adorned with intricate muqarnas (stalactite-like decorative elements), frames the transition from secular to sacred space.
Upon entering the prayer hall, one is immediately struck by what seems a paradox: overwhelming grandeur achieved through remarkable restraint. Unlike the riot of decoration found in later Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye's interior impresses through its architectural purity and thoughtful ornamental touches. The vast central space, bathed in light from 138 windows, conveys a sense of weightlessness despite the massive structure overhead.
Four colossal columns—trophies of empire sourced from ancient sites in Baalbek, Alexandria, and Byzantine palaces in Istanbul—support the weight of the central dome and half-domes. These monoliths connect the Ottoman present to the classical and Byzantine past, embodying the imperial ambition to surpass previous civilizations.
The mihrab (prayer niche) showcases some of the finest Iznik tiles ever produced, their floral patterns and cobalt blues revealing the artistic heights achieved by Ottoman ceramic workshops. Nearby, the minbar (pulpit) of finely carved white marble rises like a delicate sculpture. Perhaps most remarkable are the stained-glass windows, attributed to one Ibrahim the Drunkard (whose nickname suggests an interesting character behind such sacred artistry), which cast pools of colored light across the prayer hall's carpets.
The true brilliance of the Süleymaniye lies not just in its mosque but in the comprehensive social complex (külliye) surrounding it. Sinan designed an integrated community serving physical, intellectual, and spiritual needs—a microcosm of the ideal Ottoman society under Süleyman's enlightened rule.
This complex originally included four madrasas (theological schools), a medical school, a hospital (darüşşifa), a soup kitchen (imaret) feeding hundreds daily, a caravanserai for travelers, public baths (hamam), and numerous shops whose rents helped maintain the entire complex. Many of these structures survive today, some repurposed as restaurants or university facilities, others restored to their original functions.
The Süleymaniye district is not only known for its architectural splendor but also for its distinctive culinary tradition. The area's most famous dish is "kuru fasulye" (white beans) served with "pilav" (rice) and "turşu" (pickles)—a combination that has become known as "Süleymaniye Bean Rice and Pickle." This humble yet satisfying meal originated in the imaret (soup kitchen) of the mosque complex, where it was served to students, travelers, and the poor.
Today, numerous small restaurants in the narrow streets surrounding the mosque specialize in this dish, some claiming recipes dating back generations. The beans are slow-cooked in earthenware pots with olive oil, onions, and tomato paste until creamy, while the rice is prepared with butter and chicken broth to enhance its flavor. The pickles—typically cucumber, cabbage, and hot peppers—provide a tangy contrast to the rich beans and rice. This traditional meal perfectly embodies the Ottoman culinary philosophy of simple ingredients prepared with care to create deeply satisfying flavors.
Perhaps the most moving section of the complex lies in its southeastern corner: the cemetery containing the türbes (mausoleums) of Süleyman and his beloved wife, Haseki Hürrem Sultan—better known in Western literature as Roxelana. The octagonal structure housing Süleyman's tomb reflects his status, with exquisite Iznik tiles adorning the interior walls and an ornate wooden baldachin over the cenotaph.
Roxelana's adjacent tomb, though slightly smaller, is no less refined in its decoration. The love story between the sultan and this former slave girl from modern-day Ukraine remains one of history's most captivating romances, and their side-by-side burial speaks to her extraordinary rise and lasting influence.
Sinan's brilliance extended beyond aesthetics to practical innovations. The mosque's smoke chambers, positioned behind the great columns, captured soot from the thousands of oil lamps that once illuminated the space. This soot was then collected and used to make the finest quality ink—an early example of sustainable design.
Perhaps most remarkable are the mosque's acoustic properties. Sinan embedded resonance chambers within the dome structure—clay pots arranged to amplify and distribute sound. So perfect is the result that a whisper at one end of the massive interior can be heard clearly at the other, while the imam's voice carries evenly to every corner during prayers.
Just a short walk from the Süleymaniye stands the Şehzade Mosque, another Sinan masterpiece completed in 1548. Commissioned by Süleyman to commemorate his favorite son Şehzade Mehmed who died at the young age of 22, this mosque is known as Sinan's "apprenticeship work." Despite this humble designation, the Şehzade Mosque displays remarkable architectural sophistication with its perfectly symmetrical plan and cascading domes. Its courtyard is considered one of the most beautiful in Istanbul, while the tomb of the young prince features some of the most exquisite tile work of the period. The Şehzade complex offers visitors a perfect complement to the Süleymaniye, allowing them to trace Sinan's architectural evolution.
The Vezneciler district, adjacent to the Süleymaniye, serves as a fascinating crossroads of Istanbul's layered history. Named for the Ottoman treasury officials (vezneciler) who once worked there, the area features a mix of Ottoman, Byzantine, and modern structures. Today, the district houses part of Istanbul University and has become a transportation hub with the modern Vezneciler metro station. Students, tourists, and locals mingle in its cafes and shops, creating a vibrant atmosphere where the city's past and present coexist.
The Kalenderhane Mosque (Kalenderhane Camii) represents Istanbul's complex religious history. Originally constructed as a Byzantine church in the 12th century, possibly dedicated to the Theotokos Kyriotissa, it was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest. Named after the Kalender dervishes who used the building as a lodge, the structure retains elements of its Byzantine origins, including fragments of frescoes depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi—a rare example of Western Christian art in Constantinople. Recent restorations have revealed and preserved these dual identities, making the Kalenderhane a unique window into Istanbul's religious transformations.
Perhaps the most poignant historical site in the vicinity lies underground: the remains of the Church of St. Polyeuktos (Aziz Polyeuktos Kilisesi Kalıntıları). Built between 524-527 AD by Princess Anicia Juliana, a descendant of the Theodosian imperial dynasty, this church was once the largest and most magnificent in Constantinople before Justinian's construction of Hagia Sophia. Today, only fragments remain, discovered during excavations in the 1960s. Some architectural elements were taken to museums worldwide, including the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. The fragments reveal extraordinary craftsmanship with intricate peacock and vine motifs that once adorned this lost Byzantine jewel. Though modest compared to their original glory, these remains provide a tangible connection to Constantinople's pre-Ottoman splendor.
Cutting dramatically through the urban landscape between Süleymaniye and Şehzade mosques stands the imposing Valens Aqueduct (Bozdoğan Kemeri), one of Istanbul's most striking Roman monuments. Constructed in the late 4th century during the reign of Emperor Valens, this massive stone structure once carried water from the forests outside the city to the great cisterns of Constantinople, including the famous Basilica Cistern near Hagia Sophia.
Stretching nearly one kilometer in its original form and rising to heights of 29 meters, the aqueduct is a testament to Roman engineering prowess. What makes this structure particularly remarkable is its longevity—it continued to supply water to Istanbul well into the Ottoman period. Sultan Süleyman himself commissioned repairs to ensure its continued function, demonstrating the practical Ottoman approach to preserving useful infrastructure regardless of its origin.
Today, modern roads pass beneath its weathered arches, creating surreal juxtapositions of ancient and contemporary Istanbul. Recent restoration efforts have stabilized the structure and cleaned centuries of grime from its stone surfaces, revealing the warm golden hue of the original stonework. Walking along Atatürk Boulevard beneath these ancient arches offers visitors a vivid reminder of Constantinople's Roman foundations and the remarkable continuity of urban life in this exceptional city.
Just a short stroll from the Süleymaniye complex in the historic Vefa neighborhood stands another kind of Istanbul institution: Vefa Bozacısı, purveyors of traditional boza since 1876. This thick, slightly fermented beverage made from fermented wheat has been consumed in Turkish lands since Ottoman times, particularly during winter months for its warming properties and nutritional value.
The historic shop, with its original wooden interior and marble counters, continues to produce boza according to time-honored methods. Served topped with roasted chickpeas and a sprinkle of cinnamon, this mildly alcoholic, tangy beverage was once announced through Istanbul's streets by vendors calling "Boooza!" on cold winter nights—a sound immortalized in Turkish literature and memory.
The establishment proudly displays a framed note marking where Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Republic, once stood while enjoying their boza. Today, both locals and curious travelers form lines outside this living museum of taste, particularly during winter months when boza consumption is at its height. A visit to Vefa Bozacısı offers not just refreshment but a sensory connection to centuries of Istanbul's culinary and social traditions, making it the perfect complement to the architectural explorations of the surrounding districts.
The Süleymaniye Mosque stands as the physical embodiment of Ottoman civilization at its zenith. Under Süleyman's 46-year reign, the empire reached its greatest territorial extent and its highest cultural achievements. The mosque complex articulates in stone the sultan's vision of himself as a new Solomon (the name Süleyman being the Turkish form of Solomon), wise ruler and builder of a magnificent temple.
Today, after extensive restorations completed in 2010, the Süleymaniye continues to serve its original purpose as a working mosque while attracting visitors from around the world. In the shadow of its dome, observing the faithful at prayer or simply admiring Sinan's architectural genius, one connects directly to the golden age of Ottoman power and artistic refinement.
Beyond the mosque complex, visitors can explore nearby Ottoman-era structures, including the striking Bozdoğan Kemeri (Aqueduct of Valens). This massive Roman structure, possibly constructed under Emperor Valens (364-78 AD) and repeatedly restored throughout Byzantine and Ottoman times, provides a reminder of Istanbul's layered history and the continuity of urban infrastructure across empires.
As twilight falls over Istanbul and the call to prayer echoes from the Süleymaniye's minarets, the mosque appears at its most magical—silhouetted against the evening sky, dominating the Golden Horn just as it has for nearly five centuries, a testament to the vision of a sultan and the genius of his architect.
Tue, Mar 18, 2025 9:46 AM
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