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discover Laleli and Aksaray
Memories of the iconic scene in "Hababam Class" linger vividly, much like yesterday. Mahmut Hoca's inquiry to Şaban about the Tulip Era elicits a comical response - "Tulips were sold in the tulip era, in tulips." This humorous observation even inspired a song.
In this article, we delve into the essence of Laleli and Aksaray, akin to that memorable scene. Laleli, once a vibrant hub of Old Istanbul akin to modern Üsküdar or Kadıköy, underwent a transformation, blending tourism and textile trade. In 2021, Ukome's decision brought order to the chaotic district, restricting unregulated access to Laleli's streets. The hope is to transform Laleli into a neighborhood where people can stroll comfortably, reminiscent of the ambiance around Taksim.
Laleli Mosque: Built between 1760 and 1763, Laleli Mosque, after which the district is named, stands as a kulliye. Architect Tahir Ağa's strategic use of limestone for moisture protection led to the unique elevation of the mosque. Corrections made in 2021 have enhanced the district's appeal. The mosque holds the tombs of Sultan Mustafa III, Selim III, and Adilşah Kadın, showcasing historical significance. The exterior, adorned with birdhouses, adds to the visual intrigue.
Name Origin - Laleli: Sultan Mustafa III's attempt to name mosques after himself inadvertently led to the name "Laleli." A cobbler, nicknamed Laleli, famous in the region, humorously suggested that the most comforting place is the big toilet. Sultan 3 Mustafa, experiencing toilet troubles, named the mosque "Laleli," making light of the situation.
Laleli Taşhan: Laleli Mosque follows the kulliye structure, including a bazaar called Taşhan. This historical marketplace, known as Bezistan in the Ottoman period, thrived as a trade center for janissaries and Ottoman officers.
Laleli Teyyare Apartment: Constructed post-1918 fire, Harikzedegan (Fire Victims) apartment, later renamed Teyyare, now serves as a hotel. The building planned by Architect Kemalladin stands testament to post-disaster rebuilding efforts.
Laleli Bodrum Mosque (Myrelaion Monastery): Bodrum Mosque, once Myrelaion Monastery, contradicts the misconception that all perished during the Ottoman conquest. This hidden gem bears witness to Istanbul's diverse history, with architectural remains hidden amid modern structures.
Aksaray Roman & Ottoman Periods: Aksaray, once Bovis Square in Roman times, was known for its bull-shaped execution oven. In the Ottoman period, it gained prominence as a settlement for Anatolian migrants and the location of Janissary barracks.
Pertevniyal Mosque & Pertevniyal High School: Named after Sultan Abdülaziz's mother, Pertevniyal, the mosque and adjacent Pertevniyal High School, built by the Balyan family, exhibit historical and architectural grandeur.
Aksaray Murat Pasha Mosque: Built in Bursa style, the Murat Pasha Mosque and its kulliye bear witness to Ottoman architectural excellence, with only the mosque and tomb surviving the road works.
Aksaray Fenari Isa Mosque (Konstantin Lips Monastery): Originally a Byzantine monastery, later converted into a mosque, the Fenari Isa Mosque narrates a tale of adaptation through history.
Aksaray Vatan Street: Vatan Street, criticized during construction, stands as the monumental artery dividing the Historical Peninsula. It hosts state institutions and is a focal point for Republic celebrations.
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Everyone remembers that famous scene in Hababam Class like it was yesterday. Mahmut Hoca asks Şaban "Tell me about the Tulip Era" Şaban answers. sir, tulips were sold in the tulip era. these tulips were sold in tulips. There's even a song for it.
We will try to explain Laleli and Aksara in this scene in this article. Laleli was a living space of Old Istanbul, like today's Üsküdar or Kadıköy. then it went through a big change and became a district where tourism and textile trade are mixed. While a building in Laleli is a hotel, the building next to it is a wholesale shop. In 2021, some corrections were made with the decision of Ukome to this district, which was a complete mess. With the decision of Ukome, he is no longer able to enter the streets of Laleli at any time he wants. I hope that this will turn the tulips into a neighborhood where people like Taksim can roam the streets more comfortably.
Laleli Mosque, after which the district is named, was built between 1760 and 1763 by the order of Sultan Mustafa the Third, the architect Tahir Ağa. A mosque, which was built with limestone to protect the building from moisture, is actually a kulliye. But the architect Tahir Agha, who wanted to use the place more conveniently, built the other structures of the Kulliye as a basement under the mosque. For this reason, the Mosque is located quite high above the road level. Of course, when the ground level was lowered for the road works in the 1950s, the Laleli mosque remained higher. In the Tomb section of the Laleli Mosque, there are the tombs of Sultan Mustafa III, Selim III and Adilşah Kadın, the wife of Sultan Mustafa III. You can also see the footprints of the Prophet Muhammad in this tomb. Like the inside of this tomb, the outside is also very interesting. You can see the birdhouses on the outer walls of the tomb.
Sultan Mustafa III built 4 mosques in Istanbul to give his name. But it is a coincidence that he could not name any of them after himself. The first mosque he built was the Fatih Mosque, which was destroyed in the earthquake, to be repaired. Since the holy spring was found under the second mosque he had built, the people continued to call it holy spring mosque. Since the mosque he had built is on the pier in Kadıköy, the people called it the pier mosque. In the other mosque he had built, there was a cobbler nicknamed Laleli (there are other stories for him called awliya), who became famous in this region. He was someone who said welcome to those who came and goodbye to those who left. One day, Sultan 3 Mustafa, who wants to control the construction of the mosque, meets this cobbler. He asks himself what is the most comforting thing. He replies that he should go to the big toilet. The Sultan, who does not expect this answer, gets very angry. But when he returns to his palace, he starts to have problems with the toilet for a few days. For this reason, he gave the name of the mosque to Laleli for the sake of the event. and he said something. "I built a mosque and went to the cede. I built a mosque, it went to the pier. I built a mosque, it went to the water. I built a mosque, it went to the laleli (crazy)".
Laleli Mosque was built in the form of Kulliye, just like Sultanahmet and Süleymaniye. When the complex is mentioned, we should think of a place where structures such as a mosque, Turkish bath, madrasah and bazaar are located together. Laleli mosque also has a bazaar called Taşhan in addition to the shops in its basement. During the Ottoman period, Aksaray and Laleli were used as a bazaar used by janissaries and Ottoman officers to trade in Taşhan, since they were the places where the barracks of the Janissaries were located: Therefore, the second known name of Taşhan is sipahi inn. The other name for Taşhan is "Bezistan" because cloth is usually sold in this inn. Over time, the word bezistan changed and turned into bedesten.
The other scourge of Istanbul after the earthquake is fire. Due to the great fire that took place in Fatih in 1918, many districts in Fatih were devastated. Harikzedegan (Fire Victims) apartment was planned as part of helping the citizens damaged in the fire. This building, which was planned and built by Architect Kemalladin in 1922. later it was used as a dormitory for Turkish Air Pilots. for this reason, the name Harikzedegan was changed to Teyyare apartment. Today, this building is used as a hotel, like many other buildings in Laleli.
When Istanbul was conquered by the Ottomans, everyone was put to the sword. It is a very wrong thought to think that there is no one left from the Byzantine state. The Bodrum mosque in Laleli is one of the best witnesses for this mistake. The Old Myrelaion monastery, which was built by the emperor Romanos Lekapenos in the 10th century, was converted into a mosque by Meshh Pasha, the nephew of the last emperor of the Paleologos dynasty, 11th Constantine. It is known by the local people as Bodrum Mosque, as there is a large and rotunda-shaped structure (probably the Cistern) underneath. It is really difficult to find this building in Laleli. Because this building, like other buildings in Laleli, is stuck between hotels and textile manufacturers.
The monastery, which was located here in the iconoclastic period, was given the old name Psarelaion (Fish fry smell). Later, when the iconoclastic period ended, this monastery was named Myrelaion, which means Myra-scented, Fragrant. This monastery was used as a cemetery (crypt) for the emperor Romanos Lekapenos and his family. Thus, the tradition of being buried in the Havarium church, which was the 6-hundred-year-old imperial cemetery tradition, came to an end.
We talked about the works in Laleli. Let's say it's over. Now let's try to talk about Aksaray, the neighboring district of Laleli. Aksaray is the place where Şener Şen and İlyas Salman shout "Aksaaaraay" to each other in Çiçek Abbas movie. There is a saying in Roman times that every road leads to Rome. Just like this saying, if we say that every road leads to Aksara in the Historical peninsula, we hope we are not exaggerating. Because Yenikapi street, Millet street, Vatan street, Unkapani taksim street, Divanyolu street intersect in Aksaray.
Aksaray was called the bull square or Bovis square in the Roman period. An oven in the shape of a bull brought from Pergamum was used in death sentences. The criminal to be executed was placed inside the bull and the Statue was set on fire from below. Many statesmen and clergymen in the history of Istanbul were punished in the bull square.
After the conquest of Istanbul, Fatih Sultan Mehmet wanted to revive the city's economy by increasing the population of Istanbul. In this context, people from Anatolia migrated to Istanbul. Since this region was allocated for the people coming from Aksaray to live, the name of the district was Aksaray. Aksaray was also known as the place where the Janissary barracks were located during the Ottoman period. When Sultan Mahmut the Second planned to eliminate the Janissaries, the Ottoman navy bombarded the Aksaray region from the Sea of Marmara.
It is a mosque built in the name of Sultan Abdülaziz's mother, Pertevniyal. Pertevniyal means "one who attains light and goodness". This Name was given to him by Sultan Mahmut the Second. Pertevniyal Valide Sultan was buried in her mosque in Aksaray after she passed away in Dolmabahçe Palace. But in order to understand the quota difference in Laleli and the view in Aksaray, you should look at the entrance of this mosque. The mosque began to be buried underground like Valide Sultan. Also, when you go up on the road to Taksim Unkapanı, the building was even more underground. The mosque was built by the famous architect family of the 19th century, the balyan family. This mosque gives the impression of a gothic church in terms of appearance. As in Gothic churches, the interior has a colorful and spacious environment, while the outside is decorated with thorns and a single color. In addition, there is a wonderful 3-dimensional pattern in the dome decoration. Pertevniyal Mosque is waiting for you if you are upset that it was forbidden to take a photo of the dome in the Muyaade hall in Dolmabahçe Palace.
Pertevniyal, which means the good and the light, is a name given to his concubine by Sultan Mahmut the Second. This concubine was the mother of Sultan Abdulaziz and became the valide Sultan. He had a kulliye built in Aksaray square in order to immortalize his name. But due to the Taksim Unkapanı road works, the entrance of the mosque and the road level are at a very different level. The Tomb of the Pertevniyal Valide Sultan is located in the courtyard of the mosque. This mosque, built by the Armenian Balyan Family, resembles Gothic churches in appearance. The building, which has a very plain appearance on the outside, is colorful inside. Especially the Dome is great. It resembles the gigantic dome in the examination hall of the Dolmabahçe Palace. Pertevniyal High School, located right next to this Mosque, was originally named Mahmudiye High School. then the name was changed to Pertevniyal. Like Galatasaray high school and Vefa high school in Istanbul, Pertevniyal high school is a historically rooted high school. Pertevniyal High School, which is famous for its education, shows great success in university exams every year. In addition, the Basketball Club of this high school achieves many successes in the youth league. In addition, this basketball club acts as the pilot club of Anadolu Efes club.
The Murat Pasha Mosque, tucked between Millet Avenue and Vatan Avenue in Aksaray, was built by Has Murat Pasha, the nephew of the Last Byzantine Emperor, 11th Constantine, just like the Messiah Pasha, who had the Bodrum mosque built above. It is Kulliye, which was built in Bursa (the early Ottoman style) style in Istanbul. However, many structures of the kulliye were destroyed during the road works. Today, only the mosque and its tomb remain. As a result of the archaeological excavations carried out here, the remains of the ox licorice were found.
The Bayrampaşa (lykos = greek means wolf) stream, which has dried up today, was the only water source in the historical peninsula of Istanbul. For this reason, we can say that this creek is a lifeblood for Istanbul, which has suffered from water problems throughout its history. It is said that this stream flowing over Vatan street was dried during the Vatan street and new architectural works in the 1950s. The word Sulukule derives from this stream. In addition, the name of a neighborhood in Aksaray was given the name Horhor. In the word Hor Hor, the waters flowing in this river were so strong. The people living in this area heard the sound of contempt from the water. That's why it was given this name.
In the Byzantine period, ships in the Byzantine navy were entering and leaving the Lykos creek, which we mentioned above. Konstantin Lips, one of the important Admirals of the 9th century, built a monastery in the name of Emperor Leon 6, next to the Lykosriver, like Kılıç Ali Pasha in Tophane. In the 13th century, another church was added by the Palaeologos Dynasty in honor of John the Baptist. After the conquest of Istanbul, it was converted into a mosque by the Rumeli Kazakasker Fenerizade Ali Efendi. The name of Sheikh Isa, one of his famous teachers, was added and Fenari became the name of Isa.
Vatan Street, which was criticized for whether to land a plane on Adnan Menderes when it was built, is one of the two streets that divides the Historical peninsula into two like a knife. It is a separate issue that hundreds of historical artifacts were buried in history at the time of its construction. Today, it is the biggest street of Istanbul in terms of lanes. On the street are the buildings of state institutions such as Fatih Municipality and Istanbul Police Department. Every year, Republic celebrations are held on this street.
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Wed, Mar 30, 2022 6:43 AM
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